by Charles Edwardes
Richard Bentley And Son. Pubblishers in Ordinary to Her Majesty the Queen
A voyage of twelve hours is a serious undertaking to the average Italian, who, moreover, if he knows anything at all about Sardinia, imagines that it is a country of barbarians (latrunculi mastrucati) and that amid its wild wastes he will find no cafés, with chairs set in the sun, and the like concession to his dissolute tastes. […]
Between the swelling black cloud-masses which broke one after the other upon us, the greater stars shone like mild moons. Their radiance showed us the oily ripple of the water, and urged us to guess dimly at the phantasmal shapes of the hilly promontories which grip the Aranci Gulf like the curves of a forceps.
But the fullest assurance of our nearness to land struck through the sense of smell. There was a ravishing perfume of sweet herbs, over and above the tang of the salt sea. This scent strengthened as we rowed in a little boat to the railway embankment, which also serves as the pier of the Golfo Aranci.
Gorse added to the sweetness of the air. I could have fancied myseld in Kerry. And the abrupt and impudent way in which these Sarde lads seized upon my luggage was also remindful of Ireland and its manners.
The granite rocks do not tempt agriculturists. The two or three white body of the railway station, set in a balmy garden, red to distraction with flowering geraniums, do but help to emphasize the solitudes of Golfo Aranci, Sardinia’s northern terminus.
SOURCES OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Postcards and Photos, Late 19th/Early 20th Century
Photo in Binari a Golfo Aranci – Facebook;
The “Flavio Gioia” steamer in service since 1888 between Civitavecchia and Golfo Aranci, IN Elettrio Corda, L’altalena sul Tirreno 1828-1978 : 150 anni di trasporti marittimi della Sardegna, Chiarella, Sassari, 1978.
Photo IN Mario Spanu Babay, Figari, Storie del Golfo e di Golfo Aranci, Olbia, Taphros, 2004.
Photo IN Elettrio Corda, Passeggeri, in carlinga. Storia dell’aviazione civile italiana: dagli idrovolanti agli aviogetti (1926-1986), Nuoro, Archivio fotografico sardo, 1986.
Sasha Fiori – Flickr